It’s one my life’s great pleasures to cook food for friends so it was completely remarkable to me when I learned recently that one of my oldest and dearest friends had never had any of my food. Having been friends since we were 11 both moving to the other side of the world and having shared countless restaurant meals and bottles of wine it seemed bizarre to me that the only thing I’d ever “cooked” was defrosting some frozen ravioli one very late evening in Sydney. So, to fix this long standing horror, we had his boyfriend and him round for lunch the other week. Since I’d only ever made him frozen ravioli I thought it might be nice to make some fresh. The end result was a dish that I would instantly put on my hypothetical menu at my fictional future restaurant. Deeply savoury beef shin and oxtail tortelloni with intense Jerusalem artichoke purée, roasted hazelnuts and a light tomato and basil dressing – it felt like that perfect beginning of spring dish where it’s still cold outside but you want to use the great produce that is just starting to pop up and you want it to feel light.